The Book of the Historic Holiday Resort
- Deal and Walmer
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On this page we reproduce the full
text of a visitors guide published in 1938 by the, then,
local authority for Deal and Walmer. It provides a fascinating
glimpse of the area immediately before the second World
War. DealWeb is indebted to Debbe Kohler
of New South Wales, Australia, who kindly sent us the
original booklet which she had discovered in a charity
shop in Wellington, New Zealand.
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DEAL &
WALMER
... they possess a charm of their own |
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Deal
Beach |
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Bathing
floats |
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Regatta
start |
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Deal
Beach |
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Bowls |
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Deal
Castle |
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The
Glen |
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Golf
links: new 4th hole |
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The
Lifeboat |
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Tennis
in Victoria Park |
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Aerial
view of The Pier |
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Fishing
from The Pier |
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The
Pierhead |
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St
George's Church |
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Deal
Beach |
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Bathing
floats |
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Regatta
start |
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Deal
Beach |
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Bowls |
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Deal
Castle |
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The
Glen |
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Golf
links: new 4th hole |
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The
Lifeboat |
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Tennis
in Victoria Park |
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Aerial
view of The Pier |
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Fishing
from The Pier |
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The
Pierhead |
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St
George's Church |
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Deal
Beach |
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Deal
Beach |
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Tennis
in Victoria Park |
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Aerial
view of The Pier |
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Deal now embraces Walmer, and as a Holiday Resort possess
their own natural beauties and characteristics. Singular,
too, these two unspoiled gems of the South East coast
offer, not Amusement Arcades Casinos, Menageries, Ballrooms,
and the modern artificial entertainments, but just themselves
- just Deal and Walmer ... and therein lies their charm.
Despite their "oneness" and the many things
have in common, it can be said that Deal is immediately
conscious of Walmer, and vice versa, for whilst Deal's
development, due to its maritime interest, brought houses
practically to the water's edge; at Walmer its growth
was more distant from the sea, giving a sense of discreet
association, rather than, as with Deal, an intimate
connection and dependency.
Just two hours by road or rail separates London from
this invigorating holiday resort with its friendly atmosphere.
For Deal and Walmer are friendly in very happy and healthy
surroundings.
Here the air is tonic wine itself, invigorating, but
not heady; and where invariably a slight refreshing
breeze carries all the elements of health. Such, then,
is an ideal spot for all whose favourite pleasures are
active ones, as well as for those whose intentions are
to be downright lazy. And much credit can be taken for
one as for the other, for to get the best from laziness
there must be interest and activity all round.
Interest and activity exist in plenty, for always
there is the sea in all its many and varying moods.
For days it shows a mirror-like surface, depths of transparent
blue, and then ... a breeze from the North Sea, magnificent
rollers dash themselves to the beach in scintillating
sun-drenched spray.
With such rich endowments from nature all must surely
reap the benefit from even a short stay in Deal and
Walmer. Permeated with ozone, it tones up the whole
system, and with a high Sunshine record this salubrious
resort offers perhaps more natural happiness than anywhere
in England.
And not only in the summer; but in winter, for when
other resorts report "stormy winds and rain"
- Deal and Walmer enjoy many mild and sunny days.
Need it be added that with all these gifts from Nature
Public Services have not been neglected. Water supply,
electric light, gas and transport facilities are well
planned, ready to serve - and second-to-none.
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In
Retrospect |
It is perhaps the past of Deal and
Walmer which makes the present so beautiful. By some
mystic force the old-world spirit of those hardy fisherfolk
of yesterday permeates into the holiday atmosphere of
to-day.
Somehow it seems but natural that the mighty Legions
of Julius Caesar should have chosen this spot as a starting
point in their conquest of Britain. It was in 55 B.C.
that the first unwelcome invasion was made, to be followed,
a year later, by a second, when here they set up their
Naval Camp. Evidence of their stay can be seen in the
Town Hall Museum, where is housed a small but valuable
collection of pottery, coins, weapons, flint implements
and bronze brooches, etc., which the surrounding earth
has yielded.
As the pages of history are turned such characters
are met as Hengist and Horsa, St. Augustine, Simon de
Montfort, Queen Margaret, the Earl of Richmond, Perkin
Warbeck, Barton the Buccaneer, Henry VIII, Ann of Cleves,
Elizabeth, Prince Charlie, Nelson and the Iron Duke
- names that spell English History.
An important date in Deal's own history is 1699, when
William III granted its charter of incorporation.
Foreign fleets have sailed the Downs and threatened
the countryside. The East and West India Fleets, too,
found anchorage there.
During the Dutch Wars of the 17th Century, and the
French Wars, Deal was of great naval significance. In
1863, however, its Stuart Naval Yard, severing its Admiralty
connection, was abolished. The only remaining witness
is the Time Ball Tower, now the Information Bureau.
Deal is mentioned in the Domesday Book, and as early
as 1229 history attaches it to the Cinque Ports.
Upper Deal, with its 12th Century Parish Church of
St. Leonard, is the oldest part of the town. Not until
Elizabethan times was Lower Deal colonised. Prior to
that it was just a shingle waste sparsely inhabited
by fisherfolk. Spasmodic development brought narrow
but picturesque streets, where small houses rubbed shoulders
with graceful Flemish gables. Middle Street provides
a fine example. Through these streets, smugglers and
pressgangs stalked. Here, too, lived the hardy boatmen
and pilots, seafarers of sterling quality, who by their
skill and daring brought fame to Deal.
That tradition continues, for no part of the 5,000
miles of British coastline has a finer record of rescue
from shipwreck than that part of Kent opposite that
"graveyard of ships", the dreaded Goodwin
Sands.
Walmer, Deal and Kingsdown lifeboat stations, established
in 1856, 1865 and 1866 respectively, between them have
been out to over 800 wrecks and have saved 1,357 lives.
Of these Deal is proud to claim 861 rescues.
The Deal station was in existence for 67 years and
had 5 lifeboats, the last - the famous "Charles
Dibden" - served for 27 years and saved 395 lives.
The Royal National Lifeboat Institution have awarded
18 medals for gallantry to the men of Deal - the first
four in December 1824, before the establishment of a
lifeboat station.
The name of Coxswain William Adams is one of the most
distinguished in the long roll of Deal's famous life-boatmen.
"Cox" for nearly 14 years, he took part in
the rescue of 321 lives, saving 14 vessels. Three times
he won the Institution's silver medal, was awarded a
gold watch by the United States Government, silver medals
by the Italian and Esthonian Governments, and received
special thanks from Germany. He died in 1926 at the
age of 75.
It was in 1932 the Deal Station was closed, as with
the advent of a Motor Lifeboat a decision was made to
revert to one Lifeboat Station situated at Walmer, owing
to launching conditions being more satisfactory than
at Deal. A record of 257 lives rescued has already been
made.
The Walmer boat, also named the "Charles Dibden",
is of the "Beach" type. 41ft. by 12ft.3ins.,
weighs 16¼ tons, has 135 air-cases, and is fitted
with twin screws driven by two 35 H.P. engines, which
will continue running even if the engine-room is flooded.
With a speed of 7½ knots she carries a crew of
ten, and in rough weather can take 85 people on board.
The local branch of the R.N.L.I. is known as the Goodwin
Sands and Downs Branch, and its Honorary Secretary is
Alderman Captain W. R. Coleman, Holly Cottage, Walmer.
And these are its Famous Castles.
The bravery and unquestioning service of their humble
folk have won world renown for Deal and Walmer. Men
of more exalted rank, famous, too, for their service,
have sojourned at Deal and Walmer Castles.
These two castles, with Sandown Castle, were built
by Henry VIII at a time when war, rumours of war and
possible invasion prompted these defence measures.
The most picturesque is Walmer Castle, and it was
here that the Duke of Wellington lived from 1829 till
his death in September 1852. The Spartan-like simplicity
of the life of this famous figure is reflected in his
rooms at the castle, which are carefully preserved and
contain numerous relics of historic interest.
As the official residence of the Lord Warden of the
Cinque Ports the castle enjoys added interest. The Wardenship
was accepted by His late Majesty King George V, as Prince
of Wales, on the resignation of Lord Curzon. Other illustrious
Wardens include Pitt, Palmerston, the Marquess of Salisbury,
Earl Granville, Earl Brassey and the Marquess of Reading.
The present Lord Warden is The Most Hon. The Marquess
of Willingdon.
Periodically open to visitors, Walmer Castle is well
worth a visit. Situated close to the sea and partially
screened by trees, it is on the omnibus route to Kingsdown.
Deal Castle is also intimately connected with those
who have given illustrious services to their Country
and Empire, for the Earl of Ypres was its Captain in
1925, and passed away there in 1926. Lord French was
succeeded by Lord Allenby, whose distinguished services
in the East will long be remembered. On Lord Allenby's
retirement the Marquess of Reading graced the Office
and resided at the castle until his removal to Walmer.
The present Captain is Field-Marshal Lord Birdwood of
Anzac and Totnes.
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BEACH
& PROMENADES |
Four miles of delightful promenades, with never more
than a few yards from the sea - that is why the walk
from the ruins of Sandown Castle to the climb that leads
to the cliffs of Albion is so very popular.
Along the Marina Parade, past the Central Parade -
that unique stretch with its quaint jumble of small
and large houses which once was Deal's fishing quarter;
on to the South Parade, the Pier, to Deal Castle and
the cool, verdant Walmer Greens; now past Walmer Castle
to pleasant little Kingsdown village, where begins the
rise to cliffs which, but for an occasional break such
as at St. Margaret's Bay and Dover, sweep on to Folkestone.
And the while, out at sea, an endless variety of craft
such as few places can offer - stately liners, the pride
of the Mercantile Marine, ships of all nations, barques
with sails set, oil carriers, tramps, barges, trim craft
of every kind, and sometimes elegant yachts; and not
just a matter of a trail of smoke on the horizon, but
endless shipping easily discernible with the naked eye.
Comes the night, and the lively interest of the sunlit
hours gives way to sheer beauty, when, the moon over
the water, the twinkling lights of ships at anchor or
gliding through silvery sea, the shimmering coronet
that is distant Ramsgate, the rhythm of the flashing
light .buoys, the sweeping beams of the lightships at
anchor (guarding the Goodwin Sands) and of the lighthouses
on the North and South Forelands, and far away Calais
and Cape Grisnez - could anything be more fascinating,
enthralling or magnetic?
Yet, with morning again, there are new delights, for
whilst the early sun is rising over the sea it is possible
from the pier for your eyes to take in the view from
Ramsgate and Pegwell Bay, right along the coast line,
and behind which lies the most famous group of Championship
Golf Courses in England, and thence on to the Sandown
part of the town, with its fascinating variety of houses.
This charming irregularity is a legacy of the days
when Deal was prominent in seafaring and naval history,
times when Deal supplied merchandise and victuals to
the hundreds of vessels anchored in the Downs, times
when smuggling was rife.... Take all this in, then see
the activity on the shore - deckchairs being dotted
about in groups; and understanding pairs; shining motor
boats being lowered to the sea, and early morning bathers
darting to and from the sea and their hotels.
Then look farther south - to the left. There is Walmer
Castle, the white cliffs of Kingsdown with its wooded
slopes and camps, large and small - for there behold
the happy hunting ground of the lovers of the simple
life.
Visualise what this coastline holds for all who are
admirers of England's grandeur.
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SPORTS |
The Sportsman can be particularly happy, as this brief
outline of "What's on" in the way of sport
will prove.
For those whose holiday is no holiday at all without
racquet in hand, Deal offers, in Victoria Park, five
superb green hard courts of modern type - no loose surfaces,
yet porous, they are unaffected by rain - and therefore
no irritating waits whilst courts are being "swept
off". Ten really well-kept grass courts are also
provided. There is, too, ample space for the children
to romp and play, not to mention cricket pitches - "home"
to the local clubs - but where visitors may play; practice
nets and the ever popular putting green.
In Walmer, at the Marke Wood Recreation Ground, three
excellent hard courts similar to those in Deal are provided,
in addition to a putting green and excellent hockey,
cricket and football pitches.
"Deal" and "Golf" are almost synonymous
terms, for here, within a radius of six miles, there
are no fewer than three championship courses - the Royal
Cinque Ports, Deal; Royal St. George's and Princes,
Sandwich, to which must be added two other fine courses
at Kingsdown and St. Margaret's Bay.
Visitors may play on these Championship Courses on
introduction.
The Royal Cinque Ports Golf Club is and has been The
Headquarters of many important meetings - one of principal
annual events being the Competition between teams from
the Public Schools for the "Halford Hewitt"
Cup. 1934 saw the preliminary rounds for the Hewitt
Open Championship; in 1936 the English Championship
was played on these links, and in July, 1938, the British
Open Championship will take place here.
The beautifully kept fairways and matchless greens,
whilst demanding the best that a golfer can give, will
also raise the "rabbit" to exultation. The
Walmer and Kingsdown course, laid out on the springy
downs, and the St. Margaret's, some miles farther on,
both deservedly popular, searching demands on one's
abilities. Yet who would avoid the issue, when at every
tee a different view, when the sheer beauty of it all
erases all thought of handicap.
Whether the "compleat angler" itching to
get amongst the "big fellows", or an "annual
holiday" fisherman, few holiday resorts can boast
of such profitable fishing grounds.
This can be proved any day on the lower deck of the
Pier, where whiting, pouting, dogfish, dabs, small codling,
and, of course, horse mackerel and pollack are regularly
landed.
Beach picnic fishing parties also make a great appeal,
for many have experienced the thrill of a rod bent to
a fighting bass.
But perhaps for the keen angler the biggest thrill
of all is to accompany any of the Deal boatmen in their
up-to-date motor and sailing boats for a real sporting
day out to their own "secret spots".
The deep waters around the wrecks and the Goodwin
Sands will yield large conger or tope, skate or cod.
Because of the prolific catches which this stretch provides
Deal has become the rendezvous of many deep sea angling
competitions. The two local Fishing clubs always extend
a welcome to visitors. Both arrange, in addition to
their Autumn Festivals, open competitions throughout
the year for resident and visitor alike. All interested
can obtain further information from the Pier or
Information Bureau.
Needless to say, bathing is one of the chief joys
here. Unrestricted freedom admits of a plunge in anywhere
- any time. Equipped with mackintosh and good taste,
propriety always prevails.
For the children no finer bathing can be found than
from the Coastguard Station to Sandown Castle and beyond.
Here the receding tide leaves a wonderful playground
of hard, wet sand for the youthful architect - and when
building castles bores, there are harmless rollers to
dive through - just endless fun.
At the Bathing station opposite the Information Bureau,
private tents, costumes, towels, fresh-water showers
are available, not forgetting the services of ever watchful
attendants.
Sun bathing is permitted, and under hygienic conditions
which the tide-washed shingle provides.
The Bowler, too, is catered for in the Park, where
there is a first-class six rinked Cumberland turf green.
The Blenheim Bowling Club plays regularly on this green
- likewise there is a welcome to all.
The facilities for riding and for the hiker in this,
the Garden of England, assist in completing this wonderful
portfolio of sport and health-giving recreation.
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ROUND
ABOUT |
Many of the small villages lying to the West the Deal-Sandwich
Road can be reached by arrow lane and footpath, through
field and copse, farmyard and meadow. With an objective
in mind strike out westwards, scorning the roads as
much as possible, and rely on a good sense of direction.
In Spring, Summer, Autumn or Winter the comely beauty
of the countryside is delightful. Each village has some
outstanding feature of its own, and in seeking these
the pleasant landscapes and rural serenity cannot fail
to captivate.
Even the most modest walker can enjoy these jaunts
without any excessive demands of strength. There are
no fatiguing hills; the countryside on the whole is
gently undulating, and every turn reveals much unsuspected
beauty. Kent is the Garden of England and it is at its
choicest near its Gateway.
Here are some suggestions for Rambles that are different.
RIPPLE
A tiny village two and half miles west of Walmer and
just the Deal-Dover main road, Ripple stands in cool,
wooded surroundings. Its chief interest, apart from
its acknowledged picturesqueness, is that here was born
on the 28th September, 1852, the Earl of Ypres, who,
as Sir John French, commanded the gallant little army
of "Contemptibles" in the early days of the
Great War; and in the lovely Churchyard, overhung with
shady, gnarled old trees, he was laid to rest when he
passed away at Deal Castle in May, 1925.
ST. MARGARET'S BAY
St. Margaret's Bay itself is a bewitching little village
nestling between the beetling brows of the weathered
chalk cliffs. It is exquisite in its setting and a handsome
reward for the time spent reaching it.
Walk still farther over the cliffs past the South-Foreland
lighthouse, which is open to visitors at stated times,
towards Dover. Here will be found a most magnificent
view of Dover Harbour - a bird's-eye view of a scene
of marine activity and, incidentally, a glorious spot
for picnics.
Besides these Cliff walks there are many others which
are rich in interest and scenic beauty. As a contrast
take the walk to Sandwich Bay along the hard wet sands
at low tide, and continue on to where the River Stour
reaches the sea.
SANDWICH
Alternatively turn inland from the Bay and wander
into Sandwich, steeped in antiquity and little spoiled
by the passing of years. Wander by the old Tudor and
possibly earlier period houses and step back into the
past - into the days when Sandwich was a great Cinque
Port.... No one having any interest in architecture
and town planning should fail to visit Sandwich.
KINGSDOWN
As previously stated, this most delightful fishing
and holiday village is approached by a continuance of
the promenade under the shadow of ancient sea cliffs.
The village is quaint in the fullest meaning of the
word. The shore, with its capstan grounds and boats,
the cottages and neat little bungalows under and upon
the the downs and wood beyond, all spell charm. Incidentally,
prawning at Kingsdown is good hunting.
RINGWOULD
A walk of a mile and a half from Kingsdown brings
one to Ringwould, a village typical of Kent. Situated
on high ground it enjoys a pleasing prospect of the
Downs and shipping.
GREAT MONGEHAM
A tramp inland brings one to Great Mongeham, now part
of the Borough of Deal, where the quaint old wrought-iron
inn sign outside the "Three Horseshoes" is
worthy of note. The imposing village Church dates from
the early 13th Century. Built boldly on the brow a hill
it keeps a watchful eye on the surrounding countryside.
NORTHBOURNE
Northbourne is a worthy objective for any nomad. The
village itself is interesting, and no one should fail
to peep into its fine Church, if only to see the notable
monument in the South Transept to Sir Edwin Sandys (died
1639) and his wife, whose recumbent effigies are upon
it. The Church itself is mainly transitional work of
the late 12th Century. The Manor was originally owned
by the Monks of St. Augustine, who probably had a good
deal to do with its erection. Northbourne Park, forming
part of the Estate of Lord Northbourne, is entrancing.
Northbourne Court, an 18th Century house, stands close
to the site of that of Sir Edwin Sandys and the Grange
of St. Augustines.
BETTESHANGER
A pretty spot lying a mile or so west of Northbourne,
is reached by a walk through the lovely Park. Betteshanger
House, an Elizabethan style residence surrounded by
enchanting gardens and imposing trees, the seat of Lord
Northbourne, is now used as a Private Preparatory School.
The gardens are open to the public on Thursdays.
RICHBOROUGH
One and a half miles from Sandwich is this remarkable
relic of the Roman occupation. Here, where once was
one of their strongholds, now remain ruined walls of
astounding thickness and rising to a height of 25 feet.
There is a weird subterranean way which can be visited.
Excavations are ever in hand and many ancient objects
are still being found in the shape of coins, ornaments,
weapons, pottery and articles of bronze. The Museum
is unique of its kind.
Below Richborough you can see what was once the Mystery
Port of Richborough (or Stonar) during the War.
EASTRY
A large village on the Roman Road once a Capital of
Kings of Kent, with a dignified Church of great architectural
interest.
WALDERSHARE PARK
The seat of the Earl of Guilford.
HAM
A picturesque hamlet of one farmhouse and a Church.
BARFRESTON
The minute 12th Century Church here is a gem of late
Norman work. The carving of the south doorway, the string
courses and the wheel window in the east wall are alone
worth a pilgrimage.
Other interesting excursions can be made to the villages
of Tilmanstone, Chillenden, Knowlton, Worth and Woodnesborough.
Farther afield are Denton, Ickham, Wickhambreaux, Fordwych
and other characteristic Kentish villages with outstanding
features, and many quite off the beaten track and unspoiled.
All are connected by bus.
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FOR
YOUR AMUSEMENT AND ENTERTAINMENT |
AMUSEMENTS
The Deal Promenade Pier Concert Hall. Here the Municipal
Corporation provides high-class Concert Party, Orchestral
and Vocal Concerts. The programmes are varied to suit
all tastes and there are many popular weekly features,
including Community Singing.
A Popular Dance is held weekly.
The Corporation provides music and entertainment
morning, afternoon and evening.
Cinemas. There are four excellent Cinemas showing
up-to-date Talking Pictures, the programmes changing
twice weekly. Frequently films are shewn here before
they are generally released.
Dancing. Local Sports and Social Clubs regularly organise
dances in the Winter Gardens Theatre and a number of
the Hotels and Cafes hold Dances for their patrons.
There is a weekly dance in the Pier Concert Hall.
Restaurants, Cafes. Visitors are amply catered for
in. this respect. The Restaurants and Cafes are well
appointed, and there is a wide choice to suit all tastes
and pockets, including a new fully licensed Buffet at
the Pier Head.
ACCOMMODATION
Hotels, Boarding and Apartment Houses. The accommodation
is of a high order; the one desire is to serve and satisfy
visitors, not to manage them.
So far as the Borough is concerned, the seaside Landlady
of tradition is a myth. Visitors are treated as guests
and every effort is made to cater for their every requirement.
A word as to the boarding houses: whilst recognising
it may be good fun to some, it might remove a doubt
if it is said that in Deal guests are not harried by
well-meaning hosts into charabancs and made to tear
round the country in paper hats advertising the house!
You will be assured of a companionable time withal.
SPORTS
Golf, Tennis, Cricket, Bowls, Putting, Bathing, Boating,
etc. - all have their mention on pages 15 to 22.
RIDING
Around Deal is good country for riding, which amongst
visitors is becoming increasingly popular.
From stables just outside the town good mounts may
be hired, and for beginners there are excellent instructors
available. A favourite gallop is on the Downs above
Kingsdown Cliffs.
DEAL, WALMER AND KINGSDOWN ROYAL
REGATTA
The Royal Regatta is always held on the first consecutive
Wednesday and Thursday in September. For two days the
town is en fete. There is exciting racing on land and
sea, and friendly rivalry between Deal and neighbouring
towns for rowing honours, raising enthusiasm to the
University Boat Race pitch. A huge fair comes into the
Town for two days; there are fireworks, dancing, amusements,
fun. Deal Regatta, under the patronage of the Lord Warden
of the Cinque Ports and many other distinguished local
citizens, has become known as the finest and best conducted
event of its kind on the South Coast.
RAILWAY FACILITIES
There are fast trains to Deal from London (Charing
Cross, Victoria, Waterloo, London Bridge and Cannon
Street). There are also through trains from the Midlands
and the North.
Penny-a-Mile "Monthly Return" Tickets are
issued and are available any day, any train, forward
or return within one month of date of issue. Return
Fares from London - First Class 22/6, Third Class 15/-.
Day Return - First Class 16/6, Third Class 11/-.
For the convenience of visitors who wish to explore
the surrounding points of interest, a Seven Day Holiday
Season Ticket is issued at Deal during the summer months,
allowing the passenger unlimited travel within a given
area for a period of one week. First Class 15/6, Third
Class 11/-.
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